Dior Ignites An Affinity for Nature at the Men's Summer 23 Show
As a tribute to the illustrative history of the late Christian Dior and Duncan Grant, Creative Director Kim Jones brings the English countryside to Paris Fashion Week.
In continuation of the Winter 22 show that looks at Christian Dior for the 75th anniversary of the House, Kim Jones approaches the Summer 23 show with a homage to Monsieur Dior’s birthplace and legendary garden in Normandy, Granville as well as Sussex, Charleston – the country of residence to Bloomsbury Group Duncan Grant. The presentation invites viewers to embark on a journey of time and space, as the collection explores the private spheres of Dior and Grant, bridging the past, present, and future of the maison; from past creative milieus to their influence on present ones. The entanglement of both worlds elicits an exciting dialogue, yielding the show's lavish scenography — a bucolic garden reminiscent of the farmhouse owned by Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, as well as Dior’s mother’s garden in Normandy.
“Granville and Sussex have a similar climate; the weather, the light, and the garden tie one place to the other. For both Christian Dior and Duncan Grant, their homes, their gardens, and their private environments were so important for their creativity. it was these meaningful, private spheres that were translated into their work and became public,” says Jones. To him, it was important and meaningful to keep their roots alive.
The synthesis of Dior and Grant’s homes employs this season’s colour palette — from Dior’s signature colours of greys, pinks, and pastels, to greens and blues of urban landscaping, bringing a luscious nature to life. The collection fuses sleek tailoring with a utilitarian touch, a well-bred rebellion against informal and formal codes. In its contemporary existence, multifaceted cashmere jackets are paired with smart shorts designed with built-in turned-down waistbands and silk organza bar suits that reveal the garment's masculine construction. Techwear and Gorpcore elements are infused into cotton duster coats and reflective gilets accented with Duncan Grant’s ‘Screen with Lily Pond’ (C.1913) painting, echoing the convergence of outdoor and metropolitan styles.
Dior has always been recognised for its unique savoir-faire and the accessories in this collection were nothing short of the party. Smart insouciance meets refined practicality; the House’s emblematic accessories are transformed into multifunctional objects of desire. Hiking essentials like rucksacks and belt bags are reimagined into the House’s Saddlebag and equipped with detachable waterproof covers and hoods. Its casual footwear is accentuated with bold details: boots folded down to reveal the socks whereas Dior Carlos derbies are hybridised with embroidered overshoes — often used for protection during outdoor activities. The New Cannage Sandals are conceived with a single recycled-rubber piece while the boots are constructed with two interconnected parts. Stephen Jones’ inimitable millinery brings out the final touch of high-tech construction with 3D-printed ‘Pergola’ gardening hats layered with baseball caps. The one-off design is a nod to the straw gardening hats adorned by Grant throughout his whole life to create his paintings, alongside the trellis-work of the Pergola in Monsieur Dior’s garden.
Check out all the looks below:
