Charting The Career and Influence of Yohji Yamamoto in Fashion

"Black is a paradox, simultaneously modest and proud. It carries an air of ease and relaxation, yet retains an aura of mystery. Above all, black communicates a clear message: 'I won't disturb you, and you mustn't disturb me,'" proclaimed Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto as he expressed his affection for the colour black.

Upon completing his law studies at university in 1966, Yamamoto embarked on a fashion design course at the prestigious Bunkafukuso Gakuin, Tokyo's foremost fashion institute. Despite possessing skilled craftsmanship, he commenced his career as an anonymous designer around 1970. In 1977, he unveiled his inaugural collection under the Y's label, which later evolved into the maison's secondary line. Collaborating with Rei Kawakubo, he ventured into the realm of women's couture ready-to-wear in 1981, introducing this collection in Paris—an event that marked the first instance of an Asian designer gracing Europe's fashion scene.

Over the subsequent two years, Kawakubo and Yamamoto pioneered the concept of deconstructed fashion. Their revolutionary aesthetic stunned the world with garments that seemed unfinished, tattered, and haphazardly assembled. Yamamoto's flowing silhouettes and pervasive use of black further solidified his innovative work, a style that became a staple of 1980s urban aesthetics. In 1984, Yohji launched his men's line, adhering to the same stylistic principles as the women's collection.

Yamamoto's style encapsulates gender ambiguity, a reverence for black, and the aesthetics of deconstruction. While his profound admiration for women wasn't immediately evident due to his designs' absence of Western gender cues, he frequently clothed them in attire inspired by menswear. Such role-swapping has a longstanding presence in Japanese culture and has been a recurring motif among artists and performers for centuries. Yamamoto's audacious deviation from conventional women's couture—lacking high heels, elevated hemlines, plunging necklines, and sheer fabrics—sets his work apart. This approach may account for the lasting appeal of his dark suits and white shirts, worn by men and women alike. These ensembles, staples in Western men's fashion for centuries, embody both allure and authority through conformity, a fusion of eroticism and strength that aptly conveys Yamamoto's postwar interpretation of gendered sexuality.

No hue has been as prominent in Yohji Yamamoto's creations as black. His relentless embrace of the black-on-black aesthetic earned his admirers the moniker "karasuzoku," or the crow tribe. Black holds diverse connotations in Western history, interpreted through a variety of modernist and postmodernist theories. Through historical recontextualization, black has acquired manifold meanings in the late 20th century, symbolizing poverty and destruction for some fashion critics, while representing sobriety, intellectualism, elegance, self-control, and sartorial nobility for others.

The amalgamation of Japan's traditional aesthetics, contemporary culture, and black's role in fashion manifests in its association with poverty. For some, black serves as an illusion, alluding to rustic simplicity and self-discipline. In Japan, black dyes evoke both rural origins and noble warrior status. The nexus between black and symbolic associations from old Europe, traditional Japan, and the modern urban landscape also traces back to couture ateliers. Similar to Cristóbal Balenciaga, Yamamoto often crafted dresses, gowns, and coats free of embellishments. Charcoal gray, navy blue, and, naturally, black wool were moulded into sculptural forms showcasing exquisite pattern-making and tailoring techniques, as well as a predilection for dramatic forms.

Over the years, an array of labels emerged, including Y's, Yohji Yamamoto, Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme, Costume D'Homme, Y's for Men Shirts, Red Label, Black Label, Gothic Yohji Yamamoto Homme, and Haute Couture. Yamamoto's experimental spirit infused his creations with dark romanticism, punk, and Victorian influences, interwoven with nods to Asian culture, such as classic Japanese anime, evident in various collections of the Pour Homme line.

Y-3's inception alongside adidas in 2003 marked a groundbreaking collaboration, co-directed by Nick Galway, who later partnered with Kanye West on Yeezy's design. This revolutionary partnership united high fashion and sportswear, bridging two divergent aesthetic codes. Unlike the 90s street and skate phenomena, Yohji's sleek lines converged with the design and functionality of the iconic three stripes brand. This label foreshadowed subsequent adidas collaborations with Raf Simons and Rick Owens, as well as the collaboration between Jun Takahashi and Nike.