Marco De Vincenzo On Freedom Versus Rigour And Breaking The Rules
Last June the designer debuted the first collection in his eponymous menswear line, and now he tells us how his designs break rules he never has before
"The truth is, I like to complicate my life," Marco de Vincenzo laughs as he admits that launching a menswear line was "a tough nut to crack". His Spring/Summer 2020 Men's collection made its debut last June at Pitti Uomo where, thanks to a non-literal translation of his classic womenswear codes, the designer developed a concrete and coherent new line of thought.
Hailing from Messina in Sicily, de Vincenzo discovered early on that he had a knack for design, and when he reached his teens, he decided to apply that talent to clothes. He hit the ground running, landing a job at Fendi immediately following his graduation from the European Institute of Design, where he has remained in the 18 years since as the head designer of accessories and leather goods. De Vincenzo founded his namesake label a decade ago, and now divides his time between Rome and Milan.
What convinced you it was the right time to launch a menswear line?
I did it for the same reasons I first created my own label. At that time I was just 30 years old; I was happy working for Silvia Venturini Fendi, who gave me the maximum freedom of action, and yet it still was not enough. I felt a very strong desire within me and I knew I had to go along with it. Likewise, the menswear line came to be when I realised I needed and wanted it. I didn't pay attention to the extra resources I would have to pour in, I just listened to my instincts. After all, the industry is so tough today that, if you don't protect your passion, it won't be worth it.
And how do you protect it?
You must not give in when, as it so happened to me, you find yourself with a pile of debts and you feel that others are better than you. I have gone through very difficult times when I wanted to give up my own label and concentrate solely on Fendi. Luckily enough, I didn't fall for that. Giving up on a project like this would have been a great strain, something with the potential to make me become disillusioned. I have seen my peers fail, and I realised that even though they have reinvented themselves, there is still an inner wound that remains open.
Who is the man you design your clothes for?
Over time I have changed my relationship with the masculine aesthetic, with what I consider sexy or manly. I come from a small town in the South, and it took me some time to shake off certain preconceptions. Today, however, I feel completely free and non-judgmental. I like men who choose to play with certain aspects of the female wardrobe, and I hope that the concept of gender fluidity introduced by Alessandro Michele for Gucci will continue to gain ground.
My collection is affected by that inner rigour that has always set me apart. I am the person who was never rebellious, and I admire my peers who, in addition to designing clothes, know also how to use them to tell a story about who they are. I exaggerate what I wear, but in general I greatly appreciate those who can integrate excessive details into their image if considered from a traditional point of view. Seeing Marc Jacobs on the runway in his red high-heeled platforms always puts me in a good mood.
What other designers do you like?
I am a Prada maniac - every fashion week I wait for the show with trepidation to find out what will be invented. What I admire about Miuccia Prada is her ability to always initiate a discussion. Then I very much love Dries Van Noten, Christopher Kane, and Comme des Garçons. To be honest, I am a die-hard fashion lover, and I spend my days looking at what else is around.
Is there a particular piece that represents your Spring/Summer 2020 collection?
In terms of silhouette, I think of the high-waisted jeans. It's really a simple five-pocket, but I wanted to exaggerate the proportions a little bit. I wanted to go off kilter just enough to amaze and make people want to waer it. On the materials front, however, I think of plissé. I used it in unexpected ways on most of the collection, such as an embossed tulle that I paired with wool to create an unusual checked pattern. The goal is to give a strong first impression, that on closer inspection will reveal something you did not expect.
