French Perfumer Nicolas Bonneville on Crafting Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Scent Signatures

When scent artist Nicolas Bonneville joined Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Made of Makers programme, he was tasked with defining the olfactory signatures of La Grande Maison. He crafted three original fragrances — The Timeless Stories, The Celestial Odyssey and The Precision Pioneer — with the same meticulous and exacting skill as a watchmaker. Here, he tells us more about his process:

What would you say is your greatest strength when it comes to perfume-making?

I believe my greatest strength lies in my understanding of raw materials and my ability to use them in experimental ways to create new emotions and olfactory landscapes. My passion for exploring their full potential is rooted in my early experiences growing up spending time in my father’s restaurant, where I learned to deconstruct complex smells. This background taught me to approach perfumery much like a chef — with precision, discipline, and creativity.

Additionally, I draw inspiration from many universes — whether it’s cooking, fashion, or design — and I strive to translate these influences into my work. My process is methodical, yet I allow room for intuition and imagination to bring depth and originality to my creations. Ultimately, it’s about creating perfumes that not only smell beautiful but also tell a story and evoke emotions in a way that feels fresh and meaningful.

What is your approach when creating a new fragrance?

My approach is dynamic, shaped by both the concept and formulation. I create perfumes for clients, so the process often begins with their vision — whether it’s a detailed brief, a painting, or an abstract idea like a personality or universe. My goal is to translate these inspirations into a unique olfactory experience.

Within my collaboration with Jaeger-LeCoultre, I explored the Maison’s heritage and values to craft scents that reflect their timeless elegance and pioneering spirit. I began by immersing myself in the Maison’s history, craftsmanship, and its core values of precision and artistry. Visiting the Manufacture was pivotal in this process, as it gave me a tangible connection to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s world. It allowed me to experience firsthand the detailed skills and deep-rooted traditions that are so integral to the Maison. Each fragrance I created reflects a facet of La Grande Maison, whether it's the timeless elegance of the Reverso, the celestial bodies that have always inspired watchmakers, or the pioneering spirit of craftsmanship that defines every Jaeger-LeCoultre creation.

Which of the three Jaeger-LeCoultre olfactory signatures was the most challenging to realise?

The Precision Pioneer. It required a delicate balance to capture the Maison’s ethos of transformation and mastery while bridging tradition and innovation. The central elements — Incense, symbolising the heat of the blacksmith’s forge, and Vibrant Wood, evoking the precision of the watchmaker’s bench — were pivotal in telling this story.

Creating Vibrant Wood, tailor-made by blending Cedar, Guaiac, and Oud Woods, was particularly complex, as it had to embody both warmth and refinement while remaining modern and distinct. The challenge was in crafting a composition that felt simultaneously rooted in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s heritage and reflective of its innovative spirit. It was essential to ensure that every note played its role in echoing the Maison’s dedication to excellence, ultimately achieving a fragrance that resonates with their timeless legacy.

Our favourite original fragrance is The Timeless Stories, inspired by the Reverso.

The creation of The Timeless Stories was truly a special journey for me. One moment that stands out is when I was exploring the idea of capturing the essence of a polo field — a space that combines raw energy with elegance. I vividly remember the moment the combination of Violet Leaves and Orris clicked; it felt like I was distilling the duality of the Reverso itself. The leathery base, reminiscent of saddles, and the freshness of the Violet Leaves immediately transported me into a polo field. If I had to personify the fragrance, it would be someone who effortlessly moves between tradition and modernity, carrying a quiet confidence and appreciation for craftsmanship, much like the Reverso’s spirit. That connection made this fragrance deeply personal to me.